dimanche 11 décembre 2011

Berlin-Grado 2011: 6 weeks accross Europe with bike & tent

(un résumé de notre voyage en anglais)

As we left Berlin along the ex-wall bicycle path everybody was predicting us an awful weather as it happens more than usually in the region. This year however was probably the sunniest autumn recorded since long! Lucky us and perfect conditions for a trip exclusively meant by bike and wild camping, following the numerous path dedicated to 2-wheelers lovers.
We weren't quite sure about the way but Greece was the goal. For once we thought about following the great Danube before turning - somewhere - south. Before that we had an exquisite time crossing Germany, its gentle climate, landscape, cities and people, all pretty relaxed in the off-season period. Camping took place in a stress-free mode: waiting for the end of the day, generally at the outskirts of a village, on a public and open space. We were not hiding rather telling the people: hey, we are spending the night here and tomorrow we are gone. There were smiles on faces, support too. No bad feelings. After all simply passing by can't be harmful they thought. We made an effort to leave places cleaner as well.
Life is simple but exciting on a bike: routine takes over, 50 km/day average, cafes on terrace or in the wild, (simple) cooking at sunset, bathing with a pot and cold water. Once a bonefire too and plenty of beautiful landscapes. Sometimes noisy though :-( Cars and civilization were not that far either.
And here we went on 1000+ german kms. Bavaria itself has over 8000 kms of bike roads. Guess that's an indicator for developed countries...
In Passau we decided to go south via Salzburg along the Alpe Adria Radweg. Soon enough the cold weather will catch us! Enchanting Austria as well, full with open spaces and people. Didn't believe till we experienced it! Stunning mountain views, idyllic and well managed human-size towns, great camping spots. The first pass we crossed by train (sorry, no snow-tyre ;-) ), the second one lead us to the Italian border for a wild downhill ride, 30 cold full speed kilometers at sunset on what previously was... a train railroad! Today a perfect highway for bicycle. For us only!
The last hundreds kms were a bit more chaotic, without much tracks but a good roadbook. Sweet villages and people from Frioul. Bicycles nomads are welcome anywhere! Reached Grado on the Mediterranee, 1650 km of great fun and one eternal question: what's next?

Ps. We thought that a bit of handwork would do good to us. Legs needed some rest. Bicycle path as far as we know ain't no more. So we rode to Venice and jumped on the ferry to Patras, Greece in order to wwoof there! But that's another story.

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